Step 1: Bike into Brittany. - Step 2: ? - Step 3: Profit

The End of the Journey

We awoke wednesday with sore muscles from the intense climbing of the rolling hills and small mountains of the previous day's trip. At the start this day was no different, with a steep climb out of Villedieu-des-Poêles. We walked the bikes up it and then had a reasonably pleasant journey the rest of the day into the Bay of Saint-Michel. For lunch we hiked up into a small town on a steep hill overlooking the bay, called Avrranches. There, next to a old chateau or walled castle of some sort, we made a picnic with fresh bread, cheese, unwashed-gritty-lettuce, and sliced meats. For dessert, some Normandy Sandy Biscuits which were pretty good.


Patton Memorial. Next to Patton road, Patton Laudromat, Patton Restaurant, and Patton Hotel.

The bike ride into the Bay area was scenic, being able to see Mont Saint-michel from what we'd guess was about 20km or more away. The ride into our Inn ended with a hard cycle through head winds, which slowed us to a crawl. We were off to explore St.-Michel, which was a city built on a small island, which the land around it is flooded at high tide, but sand for as far as you can see at low tide. The tide comes in and recesses at 200ft per minute, so we hear. We took a long walk out into the sandy bay, and ate dinner at the hotel after seeing that everywhere around st-michel was a tourist trap restaurant filled with bus tours. The hotel had saltwater bay raised lamb for dinner and mussels, which were surprisingly really good. We also enjoyed a bottle of locally-made apple cider wine, apparently Normandy is the only province in France that doesn't have a single vineyard, having apple/cider orchards instead. Before dinner and the next morning at around 6am, we were surprised with the sound of a hard rainstorm, only to find a stampede of sheep running down the street outside our window (Sheep video link).

Mont Saint Michel in the background







An ancient lift & track







Thursday we set off for our final day of biking, on reasonably flat terrain and low rolling hills for the best bike ride of the trip probably in so far as ease of biking goes, however it was significantly less scenic than Normandy (as we now were in Brittany). Given that we had blown out all our extra tires, and our only backup plan was a bottle of superglue and a tube with a broken valve as a backup, we were riding the red racer (which has thin tires) with heavy brakes down every hill. The tire did take a heavy hit somewhere in the past couple days and had a snake-like bend to it (pic). Despite the red racers nearly-gone brakes, actually... totally gone brakes, a screwy front tire, and the missing gear that shattered and now caused the chain to fall off if shifted into that, it was both our of bike of choice by the end of the trip. Eric was still nervous about the missing gear and rode it halfway to Rennes without shifting once, which despite the low hills was still a feat.



Red Racer's Wonky Tire
Rennes was a great city for biking, with lanes everywhere, rental bikes like Dublin has, and generally just a very biker friendly environment. It was a little sad to be done with the bikes but we set off to sell them right away. Before going to the hotels, we hit the bike shops before they closed for the day. The first shop we found by happenstance didn't buy bikes, or speak english, but the guys were really helpful in suggesting where to go that might be interested, and so we went to the second shop. Before i could even finish telling the owner of the second store that we were leaving town and did he want to buy them, he cut me off saying no. However, he did question about the bikes and when we were leaving when i asked what else he could suggest, he looked at the Giant Hybrid (le coq noir as we called it) and seemed think that was sellable but laughed at the idea of the red racer. Luckily the other two people in the store were paying attention and so i threw out a price of €50 for the Giant, and said we would take whatever for the racer, that we just had to sell them. The one lady said she might know someone that would want them, so we gave her my number, and within an hour we met a guy that bought both of them. So 3 years of french, €400 in bikes, and an hours work had paid off in a sweet €70 payday. Le Jackpot!
Euro-Shades

Eric cashed in with his newfound wealth with these Euro-Shades to protect from the Euro-Sun, and then we set out to explore Rennes. For dinner, we each cashed in the remainder of our bike-bounty to get Brittany-style pizzas. Eric's fine choice of the the “Chef” pizza included goat cheese, onions, and andouille sausage. Despite the great taste, a strange odor of sheep manure wafted from Eric's pizza...surprising Marc and the rest of the patrons, which all kept looking around and checking their shoes.





Arromanches-les-bains, Caen, and the matterhorn...sort of.

After spending a night in Arromanches, and finding out that all places of business close at 9pm except an "irish pub", we head the next morning to Caen.  The route was short and sweet and without bike troubles for the second day in a row.  Just a few hills, fields, and château's and we arrived in Caen, by far the largest city on the trip thus far.
First thing after buying chapstick, which strangely enough is just called "lip balm" in french (finding this out after describing lip chappedness in french extensively), we picked up some lunch and made our way to the WWII memorial museum.  It was quite interesting to see the actual photographs and descriptions of the cities that we had just traveled through during war time including almost completely destruction in most accounts.  Normandy definitely paid the cost of liberation for the rest of the country/continent.


Post-museum led to a general wandering of the city including a downtown château, Eric having a complete (1-way) conversation in french with the hotel staff, and patés of mysterious but wonderful flavors (this chosen instead of lasagna rolls at Pizza Hut).

Caen cityscape from the top of the chateau

Caen harbor


We left Caen this morning for the hardest ride of the trip, around 90 km, but all uphill...way uphill.  We did some topographic confirmation the night before, but nothing prepared us for the endless uphill climbs and impending thigh burning that would ensue. Thankfully we had enough snickers and baguettes to pull us through.  After a very long ride, we made it to Villedieu-des-poêles.  It seems Henry-I sent some knights to this town in the 1100's to teach the local people how to work metal and copper, and they've been working it ever since.  It's a fairly small town, especially compared to Caen.

Omaha Beach

We've never seen so many American flags as we have today. Nearly every small town has a monument as well. It's fair to say that the bombed out earth, pillboxes, and american cemetery were something that a picture doesn't quite get the entire feel of what it was like in person.  We'll let the pictures do the talking for the most part today.
The Peace Monument


Insigny-sur-Mer

Soldier demonstration in Grandcamp Maisy





10ft deep hole in ground from a bomb. An entire field of them.


Point du Hoc

225 rangers had to scale this cliff to take out the german guns. 25 minutes later 90 were standing and the germans were defeated.

...?



I'm not sure what fired the holes in this, but they went about 4inches deep into solid metal. 

Omaha Beach (area: Dog)


Omaha Beach Memorial

The american cemetary. About 2 football fields wide and maybe 1km or more long. Nearly all the graves note death on D-day or the following 2 days.

A very moving ceiling tiling.


Arromanches-les-Bains: the blocks in the water are remains of the mulberrys (artificial harbors made by the US engineers)

Eric at the foot of the cliffs of Saving Private Ryan, at high tide.

At the hotel!